“The National John Steinbeck Center,”Salinas, California, USA
Unlike the endless corn, alfalfa and soybeans grown in the
central part of the U.S., the Salinas Valley, lined by low mountains on both
sides, is a center for vegetables – artichokes, lettuce, spinach, broccoli,
strawberries, cauliflower and celery.
Driving by the huge, flat fields lined with irrigation pipes, and worked
by crews of Latino farm laborers, it is obvious it is not Oakies and Dust
Bowlers that plant and harvest the crops anymore. Steinbeck grew up in Salinas and this section
of the country and most of his books and stories are set here. The echoes of the 1970s lettuce and grape
boycotts initiated by the UFW still resonate, as does the apple pickers’ strike
Steinbeck depicted in In Dubious Battle
which happened in Watsonvillle, just north of Salinas. The
Grapes of Wrath came out of notes he read and trips he took to cover
migrant workers in the San Joaquin Valley, just west of San Francisco, for the San Francisco News.
Much like Faulkner, who grounded his narratives in a real
place and county in Mississippi, Steinbeck mostly did the same, including using
nearby Monterey as a setting for several books, Sweet Thursday and Cannery
Row. The middle-class Steinbeck
family had a cottage in Pacific Grove, a small town on the Monterey peninsula,
so he knew that area well. The voyage
depicted in the non-fiction book The Log
of the Sea of Cortez originated in Monterey. His longest book, East of Eden, was set in the Salinas Valley, partly based on the
history of his own family. The house he lived in as a boy is two blocks from the
museum, and is now a restaurant and gift shop.
The
‘Center’
So ‘place’ plays a huge role in Steinbeck’s fiction, which
is why the museum center in Salinas dedicated to his writing seems a bit like a
Chamber of Commerce celebration. From
information we gathered, the ‘center’ receives financial support from the
growers in the Salinas Valley. And that
is significant. The museum is a series of spaces dedicated to his most famous
books – East of Eden, the Red Pony,
Grapes of Wrath, Mice and Men, Tortilla Flat, The Pearl, Cannery Row, Travels With
Charley. The latter area features
his original RV, named Rosinante after Don Quixote’s horse. There are also
sections reflecting his journalism in WWII traveling with a combat unit in
Italy, a trip to Russia in 1947 with photographer Robert Capa and his friendship
with Ed Ricketts, a quirky scientist and central character in his Monterey
books.
The museum is geared to the casual visitor and student
groups, with lots of references to films based on the books. James Dean greets you on a big screen after
you have looked at the black and white stills of Salinas town and Steinbeck’s
family. This reminds you that he wrote
the scripts for Hitchcock’s Lifeboat and Elia Kazan’s Viva Zapata too. His juvenile fascination with Malory’s Le Mort d’Arthur as a young boy is a
seminal inspiration, which led him to take a ‘happy’ trip to England later to
investigate sites related to the Knights of the Round Table and Arthurian
legend.
The museum sections are somewhat dated and philosophically
bereft according to my partner. In other words, how is Steinbeck relevant to
today? For my part the labor issues are
‘historicized’ – which means they are set in the distant past so as not to
concern us now. These are ‘the old days.’ The replacement of poor ‘white’ Depression
workers with poor Latino workers is unremarked.
Nor is any idea of what Steinbeck might think of ICE trampling the
fields of the Valley arresting workers, California ag strikes and boycotts
since the 1930s or the disparagement of science by the current U.S. administration,
especially regarding his love, marine biology.
After all, a Marxist organization or union is not paying the freight for
this large, modern building at the end of Salinas’ Main Street.
Steinbeck’s
Politics
Steinbeck was a member of the League of American Writers, a
CP front group, in 1935. After the
publican of Grapes of Wrath he was
threatened by local bankers and growers, and he and his books became persona
non grata in Salinas for a while. FBI Director Hoover hounded him with tax audits
every year, though he couldn’t prove any nefarious associations. This is much like what happened to Janis
Joplin in her home town of Port Arthur or Sinclair Lewis and his hometown of Sauk
Centre. Now Steinbeck’s name is stuck on
the sides of several businesses in the retro downtown, yearning for tourism. Salinas
also seems to be the mural capital of Monterey County, with coffee shops and a
large bookstore, so they are building on Steinbeck’s cultural capital.
In 1939 Steinbeck seemed to be a CP fellow traveler and
signed a letter of support for the brutal Soviet invasion of Finland according
to Wiki. In 1951 he participated in a world peace
conference and in 1952 still offered to work for the CIA according to the
museum. In 1957 he backed his friend
Arthur Miller at the HUAC anti-Communist trials. In 1967 he supported the war
in Vietnam where his sons were stationed, though later he said it was
‘unwinnable’ according to a line in the museum.
In the process he denounced young people in the anti-war movement. His views on Jim Crow or Juan Crow are absent,
yet he did work on Zapata.
Steinbeck’s trajectory of humanist and liberal
progressiveness turned into something else, a political zig-zag path for a
celebrated writer as he dodged to avoid censure. After the red-baiting NYT denounced him for getting the Nobel Prize in 1962 with the
suspect ‘moral vision of the 1930s,’
he turned solely to non-fiction according to the museum website. The Nobel had arrived because of his Long
Island novel The Winter of Our Discontent
– which dwelt on money-chasing, not explicit class struggle.
Little of this is in the museum itself because Steinbeck’s
politics are left murky or absent. I see
museums as encouragement to read an author’s books, not definitive statements
about a person or their writing. At this
time they are a popular destination show staged in a static building open to
the general public, including children, referencing many movies, not a
literature seminar at Stanford or a socialist study group on proletarian
fiction. Writers are conditioned by the society their work is produced in, much
as they try to rise above it. This is
inevitable. And so is the handling of
their memory.
Prior blogspot reviews on this subject, use blog search
box, upper left, to investigate our 19 year archive, using these terms: “Steinbeck,”
“farm workers,” “proletarian fiction,” “Sweet Thursday,” “Winter of Our
Discontent.”
May Day has many class struggle, anti-racist, feminist and
left-wing fiction books. Come on in and
buy one!
Kultur Kommissar / August 4, 2025